From soil to salesfloor : exploring the potential for retailer integration into the fibershed soil-to-soil framework

UNCG Author/Contributor (non-UNCG co-authors, if there are any, appear on document)
Uma Swamy (Creator)
Institution
The University of North Carolina at Greensboro (UNCG )
Web Site: http://library.uncg.edu/
Advisor
Nancy Nelson Hodges

Abstract: The fast fashion industry has been associated with significant environmental, social, and individual consequences, prompting a growing interest in sustainable apparel and textile supply chains, as well as sustainable fashion practices. Fibershed, a concept that encourages the production of local sustainable textile and apparel production, has the potential to be a local sustainable supply chain alternative that can counter the challenges posed by fast fashion. Fibershed is a non-profit organization comprised of a network of farmers and local businesses that operates within specific geographical boundaries. This network is dedicated to reconfiguring local infrastructures for processing raw materials, particularly wool, and transforming them into high quality garments. The Fibershed Soil-to-Soil (S2S) Framework is a closed loop supply chain based on sustainability values and principles that elucidates the links in the value chain of a regional Fibershed. This S2S Framework is based on a closed loop supply chain, whereby the process of fiber production starts at the farm/ranch and goes through different stages of production and consumption, to ultimately be composted and returned to the soil. Members range from ranchers and farmers to textile processers, designers and producers who are involved in the Fibershed ecosystem and produce sustainable textiles, apparel, and accessories. However, presently the role of local retailers within the Fibershed S2S Framework remains largely unexplored. This dissertation aimed to address this gap by investigating the perceptions and expectations of sustainability among Fibershed members, examining the factors influencing consumers' perceptions of and intentions to patronize local retailers selling Fibershed affiliated products, and proposing strategies for integrating local retailers into the S2S Framework. This study employed a mixed-methods approach, grounded in Social Practice Theory, to achieve its objectives. In Phase I, with IRB approval, a qualitative exploration was conducted through netnographic observation and in-depth interviews with Fibershed members to understand their perceptions of sustainability and the potential role of local retailers within the Fibershed S2S Framework. Four main themes emerged: (1) Sustainable Fashion – One Concept, Many Meanings; (2) Community-Centric Sustainability; (3) Consumer Awareness and Engagement; and (4) Selling Sustainability. These findings informed the development of a conceptual model for Phase II, which investigated the influence of consumer values and awareness on their perceptions of local retailers' commitment to sustainability and authenticity, as well as their intentions to patronize local retailers selling Fibershed affiliated products. Social Practice Theory (SPT) was used as the theoretical background for the study. An empirical survey-based research method was used to test the hypothesized relationships among latent constructs of consumers’ community attachment and need for uniqueness, consumer awareness of environmental and social impacts of textile and apparel production, consumer perceptions of local retailers’ commitment to sustainability and authenticity, and consumers’ intentions to patronize local retailers selling Fibershed affiliated products. A total of 28 items were adopted from the literature using a five-point Likert-type scale. With IRB approval, an electronic survey using Qualtrics was distributed via the online research platform Prolific. A purposive sampling approach was applied, and participants over the age of 18 and located in the United States were targeted. A sample of 300 valid responses were obtained and used for statistical analysis. Structural equation modeling, employing latent variable path analysis and using SPSS AMOS version 29, was utilized to evaluate the model and assess both the measurement and structural model fit. The results indicated significant positive relationships between community attachment and consumers' perceptions of local retailers' commitment to sustainability and authenticity. Need for uniqueness was found to positively influence consumers' perceptions of local retailers' authenticity and their intentions to patronize these retailers. Consumers' awareness of the environmental impact of apparel and textile production positively influenced their perceptions of local retailers' authenticity and their intentions to patronize these retailers. However, the hypothesized relationships involving consumers’ awareness of the social impacts of textile and apparel production were not supported. Consumers' perceptions of local retailers' commitment to sustainability and authenticity were found to have significant positive effects on their intentions to patronize local retailers selling Fibershed affiliated products. The findings contribute to the growing body of literature on sustainable supply chains, sustainable apparel consumption behavior, and Social Practice Theory by demonstrating the interconnectedness of materials, competences, and meanings in shaping sustainable apparel consumption practices. This study positions the concept of Fibershed as a local sustainable supply chain alternative. The results highlight the importance of fostering strong community connections, offering unique and authentic products, and raising environmental awareness in order to influence consumers to patronize local retailers as well as promote locally-produced sustainable apparel. The non-significant results regarding social impact awareness underscore the need for further research to explore the complex relationships between different dimensions of sustainability and consumer behavior. Through the application of Social Practice Theory, this dissertation has identified the potential significance for the various elements within the Fibershed ecosystem in the broader context of sustainable apparel and textile consumption practices. Findings from this dissertation offer valuable insights for Fibershed, local retailers, policymakers, and sustainable fashion advocates. Specifically, the findings emphasize the importance of local retailers in promoting sustainable production and consumption practices and propose strategies for integrating them into the Fibershed S2S Framework. These strategies include developing a strong network of committed local retailers, collaborating with Fibershed on educational initiatives, encouraging community engagement among consumers and members of the Fibershed network, and supporting sustainable business practices throughout the supply chain.

Additional Information

Publication
Dissertation
Language: English
Date: 2024
Keywords
Fibershed, Local Retailer, Social Practice Theory, Soil-to-Soil, Sustainable Apparel Consumption, Sustainable Supply Chains
Subjects
Textile fiber industry $x Environmental aspects
Clothing trade $x Environmental aspects
Supply chain management

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