The history of East Coast surfing

UNCG Author/Contributor (non-UNCG co-authors, if there are any, appear on document)
David Lee Pace (Creator)
The University of North Carolina at Greensboro (UNCG )
Web Site:
Tony Ladd

Abstract: The ocean has served as a source for recreation through such activities as swimming, fishing and sailing. The waves of the sea have provided an added attraction by offering the possibility of surfing. Unlike other water sport activities which are dependent on the total water environment, surfing is dependent on the sloping surface of the breaking wave alone. In order to ride an ocean wave, surfers have developed three main methods: body surfing, canoe or boat surfing and board surfing (Figures 1,2 and 3). The technique is similar in all three. The body surfer can perform without the use of equipment. The Hawaiians, Australians and, more recently, the Americans have developed canoes and boats which allow an entire crew to ride a wave together. The board surfer uses a board which will support his weight to ride the waves. The purpose of this study is to give an historical account of board surfing, but not canoe, beat or body surfing, on the East coast of the United States.1

Additional Information

Language: English
Date: 1976

Email this document to